Actually, it’s a cozy enough little place. Not exactly spacious, three plain wooden tables surrounded by folding chairs and old metal stools fill the main floor – raised up from the level of the genkan with its rusting diving helmet – to the rear of which is an L-shaped counter that can seat around seven or eight at a push. Interior décor is basic; hanging bamboo blinds, the odd poster or picture here and there, rough wooden floor, and assorted bottles of shōchū upon the counter. The second floor is somewhat better presented with a cleaner, more traditional Japanese appearance. Cushions to sit on before low, polished wooden tables and plaster walls framed with dark wooden beams.

Throughout the course of the evening the service was excellent. Attentive, accommodating and, most importantly, prompt. The jibīru (regional beer), Ebisu Kaigan, was interesting, richer in terms of both colour and taste than the usual Japanese beer (which is thoroughly enjoyable!), and yet hardly anything to write home about. A glass suffices. 

The O-toshi of mussels in broth was tasty, although a little overpowering in terms of flavour. A huge plate of katsuo – thick, meaty slices – with spring onion was excellent, if for the volume alone. A small bowl of salted ginnan made a pleasant compliment to the Yebisu beer, while the jakoten proved to be both bland and uninspiring in terms of presentation, perhaps unavoidable for mashed fish….

The tsukemono were fairly pedestrian, the gobo (burdock) being painfully soft whereas they should have been crunchy, the cucumber, daikon and carrots fair, the quail's eggs delicious.

As for the sake, the Nakaya, hailing from Shizuoka and purportedly made from water flowing from peerless Fuji itself, was pleasantly dry. A plate of hirame sashimi, a white-fleshed fish served with the usual shredded daikon, shisō leaves and wasabi was reasonable, although my gut reaction was that it was average in terms of presentation and taste. The moyashi (bean sprouts) and sweet corn in sesame oil was utterly delicious, but then goma is an awfully naughty flavour, hard to resist… A forgettable salad of assorted vegetables followed, before the arrival of a simple, yet tasty, plate of yakisoba containing fried squid, cabbage, carrots, peppers and bean sprouts.

All this was rounded off with several glasses of mugi-jōchū, in particular the Tajibei, from Kagoshima.

Not a bad izakaya, although not great either. As mentioned  earlier, I felt somewhat disappointed. I had been under the impression that Ebisu Kaigan specialised in fish and other sea food (perhaps because of the bright red rowing boat propped up outside the building?) but as it turns out the menu consists of the usual izakaya fare and is not particularly weighted towards fish. A good selection of shōchū is available, but as I'm not a huge fan this did little to appease my overall disappointment. Certainly an establishment capable of better things. Couldn’t help feeling it had seen better days and / or been allowed to slip. If in the area - about seven minutes walk from the west exit of Ebisu station up Komazawa Dōri in the direction of Nakameguro and Daikanyama – worth a visit, perhaps, but not on the top re-visit list. 

Tel: 03-3710-0778

http://www.ebisukaigan.com

One particular backstreet, which once housed a splendid tabehōdai shabushabu-ya and vaguely Western-style bar I used to frequent with a companion-in-arms (now demolished and replaced with a gleaming new edifice), provides not only a quite excellent gyōza restaurant, the name of which I forget, but also a rather charming little “neighbourhood” Thai eatery – Kaffir Lime. Just a couple of minutes brisk walk from Exit 4 of the Chiyoda Line’s Jingumae station, it provides a great respite from the toil of Omotesando shopping.

Introduced to the place a few months ago, by a friend whose recommendations never miss the spot, Kaffir Lime is quickly becoming a favourite. Two unpresuming floors. The lower, street level, with outer walls of sheet-plastic to protect / hide diners from the dust and fumes of the street, the second floor providing a simple interior of wooden floors, rounds tables, chairs and L-shaped counter. Walls adorned with old 1970s Thai movie posters. The kind rendered as paintings rather than photos, back in an era when men were men and women looked better than ever, and in need of men.

Service is polite, to the point and not always prompt. The staff, as far as my colonial eyes can tell, is made of “genuine” Thais, their Japanese tinted with that beautiful soft pronunciation that usually renders their English so charming. All sport bright orange T-shirts, making it easy enough to spot the waiter. Atmosphere is relaxed, busy almost, funky. Good mix of customers, mainly Japanese young and old; Student-types to moneyed Aoyama-bijin.

Today, being not only in hurry but also yet to fully recover from the indulgence of the holiday season, we decided on a light lunch; pork with shredded ginger, shrimp red curry with rice, draught beer and tea-soda. Prices reasonable, portions fair. Draught beer at ¥580, curry with rice at ¥1,050. All served on simple, no-frills tableware. The overall effect is casual. The appearance of the food is good; clean, unfussy.

The pork with shredded ginger, also containing onion, red pepper etc., tasted good. Packed with ginger, strong tasting. Even if the profusion of onion reminds of a London China Town dish… The red curry of shrimp looks so good that I completely forgot to photograph it before tucking in… Five or six reasonable sized shrimps in a rich spicy sauce with a good-sized bowl of rice provided. We shared each dish between the two of us and it made for a well-proportioned light lunch. On a previous visit I had the nama-harumaki (un-fried spring rolls), which served their purpose, and the green curry, which was delightful. Although I’ve yet to try them for myself, many customers were eagerly devouring some kind of spicy ramen noodle dish. Next time!

A fun little place for a lunch or early evening meal, Kaffir Lime makes a pleasant change from the usual Japanese flavour. Busy on weekends and holidays; be prepared to wait for a table for a little while.

Update 11/01/10: Further visits reveal that on weekdays, unless holidays, the full menu is not available. Instead 3 set menus, inspiringly named A, B and C are offered along with a limited selection of standard menu items. Set B is well worth a look; costing just under ¥1,000 and consisting of tasty green curry of chicken, juicy noodles in a spicy soup, white rice, and token offerings of salad and fruit, it's excellent value. The Phuket beer washed it all down nicely too. 

Tel: 03-3400-2918

Although such a themed izakaya runs the risk of becoming a cheap attempt to cash in on the fame of Mifune Toshiro resulting in a Disney-like “samurai Japan” atmosphere, being a fan of Mifune’s films I had to try the place for myself. According to Mifune’s website, the izakaya’s interior is designed to recall the atmosphere and simple elegance of Mifune’s famous samurai movies, while the menu consists of traditional Japanese dishes inspired by the films as well as Mifune’s own favourites. The website itself is informative, although the translations for the English Language pages leave much to be desired. Nevertheless, that an attempt has been made to make the site, and the izakaya itself, accessible to foreigners is laudable.

Obviously fairly recently constructed, the style is all “old Japan” bringing to mind a samurai hall or traditional inn, dark stained wood with heavy beams frame the entrance. An illuminated shop sign bearing the name “Mifune” provides a contemporary touch, and an open menu complete with photos of the famous actor in his “Yojimbo” role rests upon a stand at the entrance. Before the sliding front door hangs a noren bearing the Mifune family symbol.

Greeted with the usual chorus of “irasshai,” we were led up onto the raised wooden floor of dark, unpolished wood past a well proportioned L-shaped counter of light-coloured wood piled with baskets of eda-mame (green beans) and lemons framing the open kitchen, and into a spacious main dining area. The interior is dark. Dim lighting and walls and ceiling of the same dark stained wood as the floors lend an almost medieval feel to the place. To the rear of this dining area hangs another noren bearing the Mifune family symbol, and to the left, near the washrooms, large sliding doors painted with a floral design open onto a koshitsu. The high ceiling added to the sense of space, as did the fact that rather than being crowded with tables, only four large solid tables dominate the main dining space. On the far left of the room, separated from the main dining area by wooden screens, were several more tables, with others lining the right side of the izakaya on the far side of the kitchen counter. Somewhat surprisingly there was not a film poster or photo of Mifune Toshiro in sight!

Being seated, comfortably plush cushions and a leg well beneath the table raised slightly above floor level, a waitress dressed in dark blue monpe trousers and brown jimbei smock took our drink orders in friendly yet courteous manner, before serving an o-toshi of tuna and horenso (spinach) in a creamy looking light-tasting stock. Simple and tasty, with plenty of horenso, my only complaint was that the tuna looked like it was straight out of the tin. While browsing the menu, well presented with black kanji, red borders, and the Mifune symbol in brown upon a pale washi-style (traditional Japanese paper) paper, the waitress noticed my soon empty beer glass and promptly asked if I would like another. Indeed, the staff were attentive and polite throughout the course of the evening without becoming overbearing.

The menu, while offering a broad range of classic izakaya food, seemed to specialize in sashimi and kushiyaki in particular.  Always a fantastic compliment to beer or sake I ordered my usual tsukemono, this time in the form of pickled nasu (aubergine) with mind-numbingly hot yellow karashi (mustard). This was followed by a large skewer of tonkatsu (fried pork in breadcrumbs) and onion served upon a bed of sliced cabbage and yet more mustard. I was particularly impressed with the simplicity of this dish. The pork, wonderfully chunky pieces, was succulent and not at all oily.

The relaxed, cosy atmosphere also impressed me; not too boisterous the sound of conversation and cooking occasionally punctuated by orders being taken and patrons being welcomed. By 8pm the place was packed with couples and groups of young men and, surprisingly, not a gaijin in sight.

Scanning the menu I wondered what the “Hidden Fortress” nabe (named after one of the Kurosawa films in which Mifune starred) would be like, and made a mental note to order the “Yojimbo” onigiri later in the meal. For salad, we ordered the sengiri yasai to niku-miso temaki sarada. This consisted of slices of fresh, crisp daikon (radish), cucumber, carrot and fried noodles served in a large flat bamboo basket with leaves in which to wrap the vegetables. Niku-miso (meat flavoured miso paste) added a richer flavour to the resulting vegetable wraps. An attractively colourful dish, it was also of a good size.

Hankering after the taste of sake I selected the Kikkyo, produce of Aichi prefecture. The waitress had been unable to read the kanji when I asked the name of this particular sake, but with a giggle she rushed off to ask a more knowledgeable member of staff. I had to wait a little too long for it to arrive but when it did it proved to be neither too sweet nor too dry, with a nice woody taste with hints of honey. Next came the yasai to chiken no mushi seiro, the first disappointment of the evening. One of the pricier items on the menu it was nothing more than a mundane selection of chicken and vegetables, potato, carrot, broccoli and cauliflower, steamed in a bamboo steamer (seiro) and accompanied by a dipping sauce of miso and mayonnaise. Uninspiring, and rather small, it is best avoided.

At this point I decided to check out the bathroom. There, finally, the Mifune theme was in full force. The walls covered in framed photos of the great man in his most famous roles. Certainly more entertaining than staring at blank walls while taking a piss at any rate.

Bladder emptied, I then tried another sake, this one hailing from Shiga prefecture, the Shichi Hon Yari (“Seven Halberds”) which proved to be fairly dry to the taste, hitting the back of tongue in a pleasing manner. Still hungry we decided that the Bakudan Kurokke (“bomb croquette”) sounded interesting. Asking what it was, we were informed that it was a large croquette filled with egg served on sliced cabbage with Bulldog sauce. As it turned out, this was not a bad dish but not quite as good as it sounded and nowhere near as good as it looked. The egg was soft, but the taste of the yolk failed to infuse the croquette itself.

Next came the Shime no Yojimbo Setto, a set comprising of a large onigiri, pickled daikon, and a large bowl of steaming, meaty-tasting miso soup filled with mushrooms, carrot, konnyaku (jelly-like food made from the starch of devil’s tongue), gobo (burdock) and bacon. The soup was wonderful, and the rice ball, although simple, was especially excellent when some of the course salt provided with it was sprinkled on top. For desert, vanilla ice cream served on a bed of anko (sweet red beans) covered with molasses. A pleasing end to an enjoyable evening.

Mifune is well worth a visit. A nice change from some of the more raucous attractions on offer in Roppongi, the overall style and atmosphere is suitably Japanese and evokes something of the flavour of Kurosawa’s films and the roles that Mifune played in them. Indeed, the décor, atmosphere and service at this izakaya were all very good. In terms of the food itself, I couldn’t help feeling that it was a bit pedestrian. Not bad, but certainly nothing exceptional. Considering that our meal came to around ¥6,000 per person, better can be had for the same price elsewhere. Still, I enjoyed my surroundings and would certainly make another visit if I happen to be in the area.

Tel: 03-6804-5548 

Web: http://www.mifune-project.com/

From the simple wooden shop front, sliding door with noren hanging before it, to the narrow counter, open kitchen and few small tables in the main room everything about this izakaya is understated. The one feature that stands out – besides the food – is a raised koshitsu, with tatami mat flooring and two low-level tables, at the rear of the shop. Admittedly a little cramped and harsh on the legs, it is nevertheless an enjoyable position from which to enjoy a meal. Indeed, for groups of three to four people it is probably the best, if not only, option. The décor overall is looking a little dated, wallpaper in pastel pinks and peaches for example, but then again this is not the kind of place one visits in search of Tokyo chic. My one real complaint would be the music played. Although quiet, it is pretty awful. So much so, that my mind seems to have blocked it from memory, though it was some definitely out of place in this kind of izakaya.

Hisaya is very much a family affair. The master, Hisashi-san, manages the place with his wife, and table service is provided by one of their young relatives, a niece I assume, who is usually to be found clad in yukata. Hisashi-san worked for some years in a famous restaurant here in Tokyo before striking out on his own and establishing Hisaya. It is his formal, high-end training and experience that set his shop’s food apart from that usually encountered in neighbourhood izakaya. Many locals assume that the izakaya is named after Hisaya Morishige  – a famous actor and TV presenter who lives locally – but the name is actually derived from parts of the master’s and his wife’s names.

The menu offers a nice, although perhaps somewhat limited, selection of izakaya classics as well as a similarly limited selection of sake, shōchū, beer and umeshū. On this particular occasion we commenced the evening with several glasses of draught Sapporo beer, after which the ladies enjoyed some of apparently excellent homemade umeshū which contained huge swollen plumbs that when eaten can cause sudden drunkenness. The men, once tired of beer, moved on to sake, with the Koshi no Kagetora, produce of Niigata, being rather enjoyable. Suitably dry, but not too much so, it went down a little too easily… When sake is ordered the waitress brings a basket of o-choko (sake cups) from which you can choose one to your liking.

With our initial drinks, an attractively presented o-toshi of three small appetizers was served upon a “walled” lacquer tray. These dainty morsels were: A small, jelly-like cube of tofu and uni (sea urchin) in some kind of stock, which although pleasant in terms of texture and appearance tasted too “fishy” for my liking; a fantastic tasting dish of shungiku (garland chrysanthemum) with sesame; and some pink tarako (fish eggs), which although not something I’m overly fond of was edible all the same.

The first dish of the meal proper was also probably the best. An absolutely faultless sashimi-moriawase, beautifully presented on a tsuma (the bed of leaves, vegetables etc. upon which sashimi is served) of shredded daikon, carrot and shiso leaves. Five slices each of seven different fish were presented: saba (mackerel), tai (sea bream), aji (jack), kanpachi (amberjack), maguro (tuna), kohada (medium-sized gizzard shad) and ika (squid). All were superb, being fresh, tasty and perfectly prepared. If I had to choose, then the tai was my favourite and, surprisingly, I’d say the maguro was the most disappointing. At around ¥2,000 this sashimi was truly excellent value.

A selection of pickles – cucumber, Japanese ginger, turnip, yellow pickled radish (takuan) and zasai (???) – complimented the sake and gave us something to nibble until the tempura arrived. Served in a bamboo basket, it consisted of delicious, light tempura of shiso, mushroom, renkon (lotus root), shrimp, sweet potato, shishito (little green peppers) and aubergine, with a dipping sauce of bonito stock, soy sauce and grated daikon. Another excellent dish, though (and as with all the others that followed) in terms of size it is intended for one or two people and as such barely suffices for larger parties.

A plate of lightly seared kamo (duck) came next. Thin slices, the meat itself a mouth-watering purple-pink and the flamed skin salted, served with grilled leek, sliced daikon, cress and lemon. Highly recommendable, but yet again I wish there had been more of it! The iwashi no bainiku hasami age, sardine and mashed plum wrapped in seaweed and fried in a light batter, was superb. This was served not only with lemon and small green peppers, but also the deep-fried spines of the fish, which are delicate, crispy and utterly moreish. We concluded the meal with steaming bowls of kishi-men, flat noodles in a spicy soup containing bonito and leaves. The rich spicy taste was a welcome change, although the soup was near scalding when served and took sometime before it was safe to eat.

So, not a bad dish among them. Carefully prepared and presented, fresh and tasty. A little on the small side, but as they are intended to serve one or two, rather than a group, this can be forgiven. Indeed, overall Hisaya is more suited to a relaxed evening of drinking and light dining on select dishes than a heavier meal for larger groups. The atmosphere is calm and fairly friendly, although the master, his wife and waitress tend to concentrate on preparing and serving the food rather than banter with customers. Not exactly cheap but hardly expensive either, when the quality of the food is considered Hisaya is very good value. The sashimi-moriawase alone is worth the visit.

Tel: 03-3420-3492

Once inside the bar is actually much larger than you might imagine. Plenty of tables and chairs, and a small bar with high stools in front. The bar itself is rather appealing, with various knick-knacks, toys, and bottles arranged upon it. Pumps serve draught Bass Pale Ale, Hoegaarden and Asahi beer. Above the bar tins of canned food, American I’m guessing, add some colour while behind the bar rows of spirits promise warm oblivion. 

The room itself is simply decorated. Bare concrete walls covered in beer and burger posters, collections of British beer mats and football team badges, shelves with books and magazines and rows of empty beer bottles. Two large glass-fronted refrigerators house an impressive away of world beers. In the background, folksy American guitar plays and the friendly staff busy themselves taking orders and supplying customers with well-stacked burgers. The atmosphere is truly relaxed, funky, kind of cute and probably more befitting areas such as Kichijōji, Shimo-Kitazawa or Harajuku.

The menu offers up an impressive variety of traditional burgers as well as some novel variations on the theme, such as the crushed-pepper burger. Toppings and additions can be requested at your pleasure. Other dishes include fish and chips, nachos, fried chicken, salads, taco rice and some rather naughty looking chocolate cake.

The drink menu is also enticing. Besides a good selection of teas, coffees, fruit juice, soft drinks, spirits and cocktails a truly awesome range of world beers is presented. Most I’d never even heard of, and indeed half the fun of the place was reading the descriptions of each and admiring the bottle and label designs.

Some of the beers were: Corona Extra; Salitos; Heineken; Newton; Warfeiner; Samuel Adams; Becks; Brooklyn Lager; Satan Red; Pink Killer (a fruit beer); Leffe; Pilsner; Mongozo Coconut Beer; Mongozo Banana Beer; Chimay; Duval; Red Stripe; St. Sebastian; Carilo; Orval; Delirium Tremens and Guinness, from countries such as: Germany; US; Belgium; Mexico; Africa; Australia; the Netherlands; Jamaica; Ireland and Britain, to name but a few. The prices of the more exotic beers can be a little steep, ranging from ¥900 – ¥1200 per bottle (and the bottles are not always large.) More pedestrian offerings, such as the Asahi are more reasonable with the daijoki coming in at ¥880 and the smaller “lunch beer” at ¥300. Some of the beers are very strong, as much as 9.2% ABV.

Various lunch-set deals are on offer, and there’s a happy hour from 5-7pm each evening, during which beer becomes substantially cheaper.

So, what of the burgers? I went for the chili-cheese burger served with potato wedges. I have to say that it was not only huge, but also fresh, clean and cooked to perfection. This formidable stack of goodness contained lettuce, onion, buffalo tomato and a thick burger of lean juicy meat on top of which was plenty of chili-con-carne and melted cheese. The potato wedges were also delicious, although I think the dish could have benefited from a few more of them. A delicious, if messy affair, and at ¥1,000 pretty good value for money.

My dining partner opted for the salsa burger, also served with potato wedges, which consisted of the same ingredients as my chili-cheese burger with the salsa replacing the chili-con-carne and cheese. Again, a devilishly tasty burger. That said, and I’m not really one for burgers especially from certain famous chains, after eating them we felt no regrets. The burgers at GIGGLE are fresh, handmade, contain “real” / natural ingredients and were not at all oily.

I’d certainly go back for more. A good place for a quick lunch, and I’m also of the opinion that the bar – especially during happy hour – would make a good spot to settle down with a book and a glass or two for a few hours. Although I’ve yet to try GIGGLE of an evening, I get the distinct impression that it would be a lot of fun. Indeed, it reminds me of some of the café-bars in my native England. The thought of spending a night there sampling the beers, after dining on burgers, is strangely appealing.

Open from 11.30am – 11.30pm (last orders at 11pm), closed on Wednesdays. Take away menu available.

Update 28/10/09: After a couple of subsequent visits I can safely say that the quality of the food, especially the cheese burger and clam chowder, remains consistently good as does the service. Weekends are noticeably busier and as such the atmosphere improves too.  

Update 29/11/09: Having now tried spending an evening at Giggle, I can safely say it's a lot of fun, if perhaps a bit quiet. They could do with dimming the lights a little too, so as to create a more cozy ambience. Food was splendid yet again, and some of the beers very tasty. The apple beer is probably best avoided though. Service was good, even though the staff seemed confused by our wanting to settle in for the night and use the place in the manner more usual for izakaya / restaurants. 

Tel: 03-3789-4232

Thanks to the ladies over at 8Tokyo.com for the photo of the entrance.

Not least is that Hiratsuka Raichō (1886-1971), one of Japan’s earliest and foremost feminists, founder of the Bluestocking (Seitō) literary journal and author of In the Beginning Woman Was the Sun (Genshi, josei wa taiyō de atta), for a while called Komagome home. The town also sports a famous and quite beautiful Edo-period garden, the Rikugi-en. On a more contemporary note, an award winning shōten-gai is another of the attractions Komagome has to offer.   

After strolling along the shōten-gai a while, my dining partner explained that she had a yakitori-ya, Matsumoto, in mind for the evening. Traditional, simple and not busy even on a Saturday evening, she assured me that although it may be a little quiet the food would make the visit worthwhile.

The exterior of the building was understated to say the least. Dull concrete façade over a building that judging by its shape was a once an attractive traditional two storey building of wood and paper. Once inside the sight of a crowed room met us, barely a seat left empty, with the mama-san, a small woman perhaps in her early-sixties, rushing around serving foaming glasses of beer and skewers of chicken and other delicacies. Squeezed into a seat at one end of the counter, right in front of a wide charcoal brazier, despite being determined to take our time over the menu and surroundings the mama-san soon pressed us to order drinks. Initially I found her approach a little brusque, although as the night wore on it became apparent that she was actually a most apologetic, friendly host who was just a surprised as we were to find her shop suddenly filled to capacity. Not only was she rushed off her feet, she alone served customers while what I assume was her husband prepared ingredients and a younger man (her son?) was busy grilling the food, but she also seemed quite overwhelmed. The drinks menu offered little of note, unnamed sake – hot or cold – and shōchū, ume-shu or draught Sapporo beer. We ordered beers, which ended up taking a little longer to arrive than I would have hoped. They were, as was everything else throughout the evening, delivered with a “gomen ne.”

Matsumoto’s interior is pleasingly simple, probably unchanged for decades, providing a cozy late-Shōwa atmosphere. Worn floor, walls and counter of dark-polished wood; behind the counter stacked with assorted plates, bowls and condiments an open kitchen filled with utensils, the charcoal brazier at one end near the entrance to the shop and on the rear wall of the kitchen a tall old cupboard, with cracked glass panels, containing piles of crockery. Heavy wooden beams support the ceiling, from which hang lights covered in traditional-looking lampshades of wood and paper that serve to diffuse the light so as to create a warm, comfortable atmosphere. On the right of room, running parallel to the counter, three small tables, and at the rear a larger table that could seat seven or eight at a push, above which a television provided background noise. To the right of this large table is a raised washitsu complete with tatami mats and low table. Neither large nor particularly small, at the most this yakitori-ya could house twenty-five customers.

While enjoying our beers, and ordering the next round so as to allow for the delay in delivery, we enjoyed two o-toshi. The first was of mixed vegetables such as myōga (Japanese ginger), carrot, cabbage, celery, shōga (ginger plant) and cucumber topped off with a section of crunchy slightly sweet-tasting corn-on-the-cob accompanied by a good dollop of miso paste in which to dip the corn. This particular o-toshi was delicious, fresh and interesting. According to the mama-san, its contents changes daily. The second was a small dish of pickled hōrensō (spinach) and tiny white shirasu (whitebait.) Not especially inspiring, but tasty nonetheless.

Our initial yakitori-moriawase, consisting of two chicken wings, one leek and chicken skewer (kushi) and another of chicken heart with tsunagimo (gizzard) complimented by a quarter of lemon to squeeze over all, looked great and tasted even better. Everything was simply prepared, cooked and presented. The flavour and texture of each ingredient allowed to speak for itself. A crunchy o-shinko-moriawase of pickled daikon (radish), cucumber and shiso (perilla) had a distinctly no-frills home-cooking feel, the vinegary taste encouraging us to quaff more beer.

Instead of my usual leafy salad, I decided on the potato variety. A nice, big pile of the stuff resting upon a lettuce leaf. Again, nothing spectacular but delicious all the same. A strange addition to a yakitori menu, the katsuo no tataki, slices of bonito served with wakame seaweed, cucumber and onion in a ponzu sauce, looked wonderful with each slice of fish being of a good size, succulent and suitably strong tasting. Returning to chicken, a skewer of tori-kawa (fried chicken skin) was a little too oily in my opinion, although my dining partner seemed to enjoy it very much, and another of simple white chicken breast in tare sauce and mustard was perfectly tender. Both were a little on the small side, however. Unable to resist we then ordered three large skewers of grilled chicken liver. Although not the best I’ve had – I prefer a slightly stronger tasting liver – this was still a wonderful dish, the liver pieces large, soft and nicely complimented by tare sauce and mustard.

Matsumoto remained packed for the entire evening. No sooner had a party finished their meal and departed than a new group would enter. Indeed, several eager hungry looking customers were turned away, there not being a table to spare. This busy situation, combined with the simple interior and overwhelmed mama-san, resulted in a splendidly convivial atmosphere of down to earth, no-nonsense dining. The feel of the place so warm and cozy that I feel it would be a wonderful place to dine on a cold winter’s night. When we asked if the shop is usually so busy, the mama-san, somewhat out of breath, expressed a kind of bewildered shock, claiming that she’d never seen so many customers in one evening.

Sorry as we felt for her, we were not yet inclined to make her life any less hectic. Some vegetables, in the form of a skewer of six shishitō (small green peppers) and another of two broad, flat mushrooms were followed by six halves of superb grilled tsukune (chicken-mince) in tare sauce. These really were fantastic, being cooked to perfection, rich tasting and not in the least gristly. Three more portions of tender white momo (chicken thigh) with leek, lightly cooked, and then pieces of garlic, five to a skewer, slow-grilled so as to be slightly charred on the outside and soft inside, served with miso paste. Couldn’t have been more simple but all were delicious. Indeed, watching the care with which each dish was prepared and cooked, it was not only obvious why everything tasted so good, but also explained why each order took so long to arrive.

No sooner had we concluded our meal with three wholesome-looking grilled onigiri (rice balls) served with pickled daikon and cucumber and, being determined to settle in for the rest of the evening, ordered a few more drinks, than the mama-san suddenly served all her customers with tea. This was the classic Kyoto-style way of saying “that’s it, go home.” Everyone understood, although not a few seemed shocked. No doubt the mama-san was simply exhausted or had decided that the till had taken enough money to last her for the rest of month. Either way, she’d obviously had enough and decided it was time to close.

Would I make another visit to Matsumoto? Certainly! This was one of the most enjoyable yakitori-ya I’ve been to in a while. The food, although simple, was excellent with plenty of different dishes to choose from. The service while slow was actually polite – even apologetic – and friendly. The cozy look and feel of the place made it easy to relax and settle in for the evening. The price was very reasonable, especially considering the variety of dishes we ordered and the quantity of beer consumed. Simple, tasty yakitori served in comfortable, Shōwa-esque surroundings. Can’t be bad.

Tel: 03-3945-9920

Despite having tried the Shinjuku, Shibuya and Marunouchi branches of En, I always find myself returning to the one in Kichijōji. Something about the atmosphere of the town adds to the feel of the izakaya itself, perhaps. From the understated street level entrance and stairs up to the genkan of polished wood and shoe lockers, the cordial welcome and two levels of cozy low-lit, shadowy tatami-floored dining areas beautifully incorporating dark wooden lattices, shōji screens, sliding fusuma doors and private koshitsu rooms, everything about En’s décor and the ambience it creates suggest a distinctively Japanese style. Many are the izakaya that attempt to create this look, but few are those that manage it so successfully. En successfully fuses traditional and contemporary Japanese style without being either pretentious or Disneyesque. 

Unsurprisingly, En is extremely popular. Busy almost every night, turning up without a reservation after 7.30pm usually results in a long wait or being turned away. Booking in advance, especially on Friday and Saturday nights, results in a two-hour limitation being imposed upon your visit. It’s best to arrive early, secure a table and then settle in for a leisurely meal. As well as the splendid interior decoration the clientele also adds to atmosphere. Generally free of students and the twenty-something set, patrons are usually in the thirty-plus, somewhat more well-healed demographic, resulting in a convivial air of conversation without becoming too raucous.

On this particular visit we arrived, without a reservation, at 6.15pm on a busy Saturday. Informing the master of the house that a friend would be joining us at 7pm we were welcomed, assured that there would be no time limit on our visit, and after depositing our shoes in the lockers were led past the lower floor dining area with its open kitchen, counter and semi-private “ante-chamber” up the two flights of broad wooden stairs. Entering the upper level, consisting of several private rooms and a large “party” table off to the right and separated by a gleaming corridor of polished wood and a small Japanese garden from the spacious 27 mat room in which we were to spend the evening, we were shown to our table.

Settling down on our cushions at a table to the rear of the room, behind which was another large private room with resplendent gilded-looking fusuma doors left half open, on our left along the entire length of the room a glass wall looked onto the small garden of rocks, pebbles, foliage and a bamboo fountain lazily dripping water into a stone basin. The room itself contained seven low tables each of which could comfortably accommodate four diners, six at a push. Each table has a leg-well set into the floor, meaning that although one sits upon a cushion on the tatami mats there is no need to endure cramped legs. About two-thirds along the length of the room it is divided by a tasteful lattice of dark wood. On the right, the stucco wall is adorned with washi (Japanese paper) covered lights providing a diffuse combination of pale yellow and orange glows amidst the shadows.

Ordering drinks – Yebisu beer and a lime sour – we perused the nicely designed menu; complete with monthly and seasonal specials and of course the recommendations of the day. An English menu, somewhat less well presented, is also available. However some of the translations are so literal, for example a dish of “cow’s guts”, as to be decidedly unappetizing. In terms of food and drink, a good selection of fish, meat, poultry, vegetable and tōfu dishes are on offer, as well as a wide variety of drinks ranging from beer, wine and cocktails to shōchu and sake. Our drinks arrived with a simple o-toshi of kinu-dōfu, a simple appetizer of cold tōfu in a soy sauce and dashi (stock) sauce topped with shredded bonito flakes. Hardly original, but adequate all the same.

Wanting to take our time in ordering while awaiting the arrival of our companion we nibbled on an oshinko moriawase of pickled gobō (burdock), nasu (aubergine), kyūri (cucumber), cabbage and shibazuke kyūri. Overall this selection of pickles was tasty, with the strong tasting crunchy gobō standing out and the fleshly slightly sour aubergine also being worthy of note. The kyūri was too salty for my taste and the cabbage caught the back of the throat. The portion was of a reasonable size and all the pickles were fresh, with not a daikon (radish) in sight for a change! This was followed by the kinpira celery; a warm dish of slightly spicy, tangy celery fried in sesame oil and soy sauce with sliced red chili peppers and topped with sesame seeds.

By 7pm the izakaya was packed, the waiters and waitresses bustling about carrying trays laden with food and drink and the conversation and sounds of laughter increasing. As is often the case at En, it seemed that most of the diners were also of a mind to make a long evening of it. With our companion now arrived we could commence the meal proper.

Foregoing the always-excellent En salad, I couldn’t resist another favourite, the cabbage and miso salad. This deceptively simple arrangement of half a raw cabbage on a huge bed of ice surrounded by six little cups filled with a variety of miso pastes is truly delicious and entertaining. Each cup of miso has a thin wooden name badge in it allowing those that can read Japanese to know what it is they are tasting. Simply tear off a layer of cabbage and then dip it into your miso of choice. My favourite, the black goma (sesame) miso, is almost dangerously addictive. Others include the peanut miso, slightly bitter kinome leaf miso, citrus miso and spicy kara-miso. Although in recent years the raw cabbage salad has become a mainstay of izakaya, this particular take on the idea is one of the best I have yet come across.

I never feel that an izakaya meal is complete without some sashimi, and as such we decided on the santen moriawase (assortment of three different fish) which on this particular evening comprised of hirame (sole), awabi (abalone) and aji (jack). All were fresh and succulent apart from the awabi which was a little bland and erred on the rubbery side. The hirame was quite excellent. The slices of fish themselves were served upon a large bed of ice piled high with a hermit crab shell, shredded daikon and shiso (perilla) leaves. To the edge of the arrangement two small heaps of wasabi and grated ginger nestled beside a piece of fresh wasabi resting upon a delicate little wasabi grater. Yellow kiku (chrysanthemum) petals added colour. En’s sashimi never disappoints, although I often wish it were a little larger. That said, bigger selections are available. Although we neglected to order it, the California roll is also well worth trying, despite having become less sizable in recent years.

High time for some sake I decided to begin with Bunraku, a cheap, drinkable sake from Saitama prefecture which according to the menu is good hot or cold, but ended up being a little too sweet to my mind. En’s sake, when ordered in the basic ichi-go size, always comes served in a dainty little glass tokuri with equally dainty glass choko (sake cups). Although not an outstanding flavour, at almost half the price of some of the better sake on the menu the Bunraku is not a bad idea for those with a thirst. Taking advantage of my sake-induced lull in vigilance, my dining partners swiftly ordered a sawawa guratan (gratin of fish and erengi mushrooms in white sauce) served in a small iron skillet. To be fair it was not a bad dish, although the fish was perilously boney. The erengi was good and the white sauce pleasant enough. Such concessions aside I remained, as usual, rather uninspired by the gratin. This was followed by some danshaku imo (baron potatoes) fried in big chunky wedges, that even a British pub would be proud of, lightly sprinkled in salt and herbs with a pile of seven spices into which to dip them. Delicious.

Kaiun, a sake hailing from Shizuoka prefecture, was fruity, sweet tasting and markedly better than the Bunraku. So much better in fact that it lasted but a few minutes and I found myself forced to consider my next drink. Desiring a change, and intrigued by the name I opted for Hakkaisan shōchu, Hakkaisan being more usually associated with sake. In fact the taste of this shōchu was reminiscent of the sake of the same name, and as its vapour and flavour were not too overpowering it was extremely drinkable, especially when served on-the-rocks.

By 9pm most had eaten their fill and the atmosphere simmered down to a lovely post-meal tone of noticeably calm conversation and a constant stream of drinks being ordered all around. Still desiring one last morsel, and being desirous of something’s flesh, I finished off the meal with some pork, the yamato buta no miso kasu yaki. A simple dish of sliced succulent pork fried in miso topped with moist grated daikon and hot yellow mustard. Perfect. Suitably full, we then spent the rest of the evening indulging in several glasses of strong tasting Okinawan Kokutō shōchu made from brown sugar. A potent drink, I found it best mixed with a little water (mizu-wari) and ice.

Excellent service, tasteful surroundings, a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere, good food and plenty of interesting drinks to choose from and all at a reasonable price. Indeed, En always seems to cost less than you assume it ought to. Kichijōji has plenty of excellent izakaya, and yet En never fails to please.

Tel: 0422-29-0309 

Web: http://www.byo.co.jp/

Whenever I’ve passed by of an evening Uoshin has been packed. Any day of the week. Its façade of simple, tall windows looking in on a faux Shōwa-era fish-market izakaya interior always seemed inviting. Deciding to give it a try, we headed there on a recent Thursday evening to be greeted at the door by a waitress in blue monpe. Entering in, I was surprised to find a small, well-appointed and practically deserted sushi-bar fitted out with a gleaming pale-wood counter and washitsu to the rear of the shop. As the waitress guided us to a table, I whispered with some urgency to my dining partner that this was not the crowded, lively looking izakaya we had just seen and imagined ourselves to be entering.

Explaining our mistake, while offering apologies for not on this particular evening being in the mood for sushi, we beat a less than hasty retreat (hard to bow and make haste at the same time). Realizing the source of our confusion, the sushi chef pointed out that this was indeed part of the izakaya, and any items from its menu could also be served here in the sushi shop. Pleasant enough as this might have been, we were not in the mood for such quiet surroundings and insisted on going next door to the izakaya proper. Still, to have a small sushi bar attached to an izakaya is an interesting concept, and no doubt helps to soak up customers when the main rooms of Uoshin are filled to capacity. Back on the street we walked further along the shop front to the main entrance and stepped into the warm, noisy interior. Shown quickly to a seat at the large U-shaped counter that surrounds a decidedly industrial-looking open kitchen, we ordered beer, large bottles of chilled Yebisu, to sip while taking in our surroundings.

Uoshin’s décor is simple; wooden floors, white plaster walls framed in dark wood, plenty of tables and chairs in small semi-private alcoves and rooms, visible through sliding glass-panelled doors, off the main dining floor which is itself dominated by the large kitchen and surrounding counter. Walls are decorated with black and white photos of fish markets and fishmongers wielding gigantic freshly caught fish – hinting at Uoshin’s connection to a Tsukiji fish wholesaler – occasional signatures from famous patrons and hand-written recommendations from the menu. Above the counter all around the periphery of the kitchen similar slips of paper display in bold characters choice dishes while the kitchen itself, a hectic jumble of stainless steel shelves, ovens, refrigerators and cooking utensils, is “decorated” with rows of hanging dried fish (himono). The counter, although large, was rather crowded and decorated with small china temple dogs. 

A second round of Yebisu was accompanied by a small basket of eda-mame (salted boiled broad beans in the pod) and a large plate of sashimi, six thick succulent slices each of wonderfully fresh katsuo (bonito) and buri (yellowtail) resting on a bed of shredded daikon (radish) and shisō (perilla) leaves. Beside the sashimi little piles of wasabi, shōga (ginger), wakame (seaweed) and myōga (Japanese ginger) were arranged ready to be mixed into small dishes of shōyu (soy sauce). Both sashimi were tasty, especially when eaten with wakame, and devoid of that slightly icy “just out of the freezer” texture that so often is associated with large (water-swollen) portions. 

Trying to choose a salad from the menu while being interrupted every few minutes by a waitress pushing in beside me to serve other diners at the counter (an eclectic mix of salarymen, students, dating couples, and lonely looking thirty-something office-ladies) was somewhat annoying, but considering how crowded the place was this can perhaps be overlooked. Throughout the course of the evening the service was prompt, to the point and friendly. Returning to the salad, we eventually settled on the kamaage shirasu to iwanori no sarada. This surprisingly tasty, if rather small, dish consisted of plenty of tiny white baby fish (shirasu), a variety of seaweed (iwanori), lettuce, daikon, and onion (tamanegi) topped with dried nori. Indeed, compared with the usual soggy abominations of tuna (maguro) scraps, limp lettuce and mayonnaise one often encounters in izakaya specializing in fish this salad was nothing short of marvellous. 

At this point in the meal sake seemed appropriate (why eating salad always seems to herald sake I have no idea) and as such we began our investigation of the dozen or so on offer with the Kukurei and Shirakami. Both were served from the bottle before our very eyes, poured into pleasingly large glasses. My only complaint was the lack of masu and usual overflow of sake they prompt. Neither of these sake were smooth, although the Shirakami was the more drinkable of the two, but were enjoyable all the same. The Dassai, an old favourite of mine and produce of Yamaguchi prefecture, was sweeter tasting and reassuringly mellow. Unfortunately the Jōkigen, this time from Yamagata prefecture, while decidedly drier than the others was fairly tasteless.

Hungry again, and determined to try something “different”, we next had a small dish of vivid pink hamo no karage (fried sea eel) covered in a strong-tasting sauce derived from pickled plum (ume). Different certainly, but I found the flavour a little overpowering after a while and so had no option but to wash it down with a little more sake, this time the rough-tasting pale yellow Yūho and the even rougher Hidakami. These induced an unwelcome light-headedness that was only somewhat cured after gulping down a bowl of o-cha-zuke (rice in hot tea), which to my horror contained ikura (salmon roe). The intrusion of the ikura aside, this dish was actually rather good and made interesting by its unusual orange colouring. An incredibly small portion of udon (juicy wheat-flour noodles), served on a bamboo tray with a bowl of ponzu sauce containing chives and ice, failed to impress and most definitely failed to stop the room from spinning. Admitting defeat at the hands of the sake menu we took our leave.

Tel: 03-3419-5584

Tucked away in hard to find corner of Shinsen, one stop from Shibuya on the

Outside the entrance, which itself is tucked away on a corner of the building in which Tamoiyanse occupies the ground floor, hanging from a solid wooden frame is an impressive navy blue noren (shop sign) bearing the name of the izakaya written in bold white hiragana. Once inside, we found a simple stone floored genkan (entrance hall) complete with small table and chairs. Walking along the short corridor, past a couple of small koshitsu (private rooms), we were greeted by a friendly bandana-wearing young man who upon congratulating us on finding the place led us to a seat at the large dog-leg counter which dominates the main room. Before the counter is a semi-open kitchen, and behind us the fairly spacious room consisted of polished wooden floors, low tables and floor level seating. One wall is covered in a handwritten shōchū menu, the name of each written in bold black kanji upon strips of white paper, another covered in bamboo-wicker matting is decorated with a lantern, Japanese mask and happii coat. Elsewhere, simple light coloured stucco walls are framed with dark wood. On the whole the décor is basic, unfussy and comfortable. More brightly lit than many izakaya are apt to be, the atmosphere is warm and friendly. Probably an excellent choice for a cold winter night. Despite being a Friday evening, at 7.45pm the place was not overly busy, although by 8.30pm it was packed. Customers were an interesting mix of salarymen, gaijin, students, and lots of women.

Hot towels, menus and an o-toshi of three tsubugai (whelk) were delivered, and our drink orders taken. I settled on beer while my dining partner chose a glass of rose that was quite reasonably priced. We then spent a long time marvelling at the menu. The recommendations of the day written in black characters on a white page with orange accents, a style seen all over Tokyo in recent years, offered a wide range of interesting dishes that seemed somewhat different from the usual izakaya fare. The rest of menu consisted of page upon page of dishes, and a listing of around eighty different shōchū, from Miyazaki and Kagoshima Prefectures, which when combined with those displayed on the wall totalled around one-hundred. Only one sake, Garaku, is available. Being neither well versed in the ways of shōchū or a big fan of the drink I nevertheless decided to sample some of them, rather than keeping to my usual beer and sake. Aside from the shōchū several wines, red and white, as well as plum wine are available by the glass or bottle.

Perhaps concerned that we were taking over long in ordering, a friendly, straight talking middle-aged woman, who seemed to be the head of the waiting staff, appeared at our side to explain the menu and offer her recommendations. Following her advice we chose the gyū no tataki, small thin slices of rare lightly marbled Miyazaki beef dipped in ponzu sauce and grated garlic before wrapping the beef around slices of raw onion. Thoroughly tender and delicious my only complaint is that the dish was a little on the small side. Keen to try some shōchū, I explained that I’m not particularly keen on very strong tasting varieties with overpowering fumes, and was advised to try the Obisugi from Miyazaki Prefecture. Served on the rocks, it turned out to be a very mild drink. Perhaps a little too mild. Highly drinkable all the same, I felt assured that I could enjoy several without passing out.

Caught up in the warm atmosphere and feeling thoroughly at home we did not at first realize how slow our food was in arriving. After sometime, however, it became a little annoying and yet from what we could see being served all around us the quality of the food seemed to justify the time taken in preparation and delivery. Another shōchū, this time the Hibari, from Miyazaki was excellent although right on the edge of my strength threshold. With each sip I could feel the alcohol working its magic. Not necessarily a bad thing, but I at least wanted to eat some more before falling off my chair.

Eventually the yasai sumi-yaki, charcoal-grilled vegetables, arrived. A wonderful assortment of chunky zukini (courgette), imo (sweet potato), kabocha (pumpkin), erengi mushrooms, baked onion and green peppers. All were simply gorgeous. Lightly cooked so as to retain their flavour and texture, each was dipped in salt. The baked onion, soft and fleshy, was the best I’ve had outside of Kyoto’s Negiya. As we finished off the last of the vegetables an oshinkō-moriawase (assorted pickles) arrived, over an hour after we had ordered it! It was however worth the wait. Fresh, crunchy pickled radish, carrot, burdock, rakkyō (pickled scallion), cucumber and leaf mustard. Overall it was a good-sized dish with a nice range of flavours.

Inspired by the choices of those around us we next had the momoyaki no ninniku, charcoal-grilled chicken cut off the bone in juicy morsels accompanied by garlic and long quarters of cucumber. To be honest, I found the charcoal taste to be a little overpowering, and the chicken itself a bit on the chewy side. My dining partner, on the other hand, enjoyed it immensely. Such concerns aside, it was certainly a huge portion and excellent value for money. I washed the chicken down with the Yakonoshimodai-Shizenrin, a shōchū from Satsuma, which in all honestly was too strong for my liking. In order to remain sober I then tucked into an enormous dish of chiken namban, four large succulent portions of chicken breast fried with the skin left on, covered in sickly tarutaru sauce and served with a pile of lettuce and chopped tomato. Although filling, and initially very tasty, I soon found this particular dish to be too oily. We finished of the meal with a large slice of chocolate cake, light and not too sweet but perhaps a bit dry.

In all Tamoiyanse is an excellent izakaya, providing relaxed, comfortable surroundings, an awesome range of shōchū, interesting food and great service. The delivery is slow, but I’d put this down to care being taken in the cooking of each dish and, perhaps, the menu offering too many different dishes. Nevertheless, we felt very much at home and spent a thoroughly enjoyable evening at this easily recommendable establishment. Prices are reasonable, although in the mid-range, with our meal coming to a little over ¥6,000 per person. I’ll certainly being going back for more.

Tel: 03-3461-4333

Web: http://tamoiyanse.com/top/index.htm

Located behind Shibuya station, across

At the top of stairs a small hallway contains shelves of records and CDs. Stepping into the bar itself, I was greeted by a drab room of decidedly dishevelled appearance. Bare wooden floors, wood panelled walls painted in institutional pale green, browned with age and tobacco stains, and windows framed with wooden shutters stained in faded racing green. Upon the walls a few forgettable pictures were mounted, the only one I can recall being in black and white of a semi-nude woman with resplendently pert breasts.  

The centre of the room is dominated by a large oval table upon which is a row of books placed for the pleasure of customers. Lining the room are benches covered in old green vinyl pock marked with cigarette burns. Before the benches, small sturdy looking tables and chairs. In the left corner of the room, more books, magazines and CDs, and speakers hidden behind a wooden grill. The sound from the speakers is average at best. In terms of music, although when I first entered Miles Davis’s Seven Steps to Heaven was playing, he was soon replaced by some kind of jazz-rock fusion and then something tribal, it roots in Africa I don’t doubt. Noisy, I found it hard to relax.

The master of the place, a bored looking middle-aged man wearing an apron, seemed uninterested if not outright cold. Perhaps after 37 years running the place he’s had enough. The menu with which he provided me offered a selection of hot and cold beverages, alcohol and food. With Tokyo Ale at ¥900, Yebisu, Kirin and Asahi beer all at ¥750 and ice coffee for ¥800, prices are a little on the steep side, although not unusual for jazu-kissa. Granted, the ice-coffee was freshly made and quite delicious. I then opted for the cheaper Carlsberg beer, at ¥600 for the first glass and then subsequently ¥400.

Mary Jane lacks both character and atmosphere. Neither cosy or inviting, it feels unloved and thus is uninspiring. Whereas I can spend hours relaxing with book, beer and music in Masako, Volontaire or Meg I could hardly wait to leave Mary Jane. Is there something about Mary Jane? No.

Tel: 03-3461-3381

Web: http://maryjane.cocolog-nifty.com/